Demystifying Certification Systems Across the Global Textile Supply Chain

10 minutes ago

31 min read

What is certification?

Certification in the global textile and fashion supply chain is a formal, third-party verification process confirming that an organization, process, product, or facility complies with defined international standards, regulatory mandates, or ethical benchmarks. Unlike self-declarations or internal audits, a certification provides objective, legally defensible proof regarding quality control, chemical safety, environmental performance, or labor conditions.

Who can certify?

Usually an independent, trusted third party or professional group can certify the process or a person for his qualification or status. As in most of the jobs, when anyone joins or a student goes to any school/college, a doctor certifies that person is physically and mentally fit for the work or the student is physically and mentally suitable to study or to take admission. From this we understand that certification should be done by a third party. But can every doctor certify a student for his medical fitness? The answer is NO. Doctors should have some qualification themselves before certifying others. Similarly, in the textile industry, an audit firm or laboratory must hold official third-party accreditation before it is authorized to inspect facilities, verify compliance, or issue valid certifications.

Let's start by defining some key terms:

Standards:

Standards are technical performance benchmarks and frameworks, developed by bodies of experts. There are mandatory (legally required) and voluntary standards; since we’re discussing certifications right now, we’re focused on voluntary standards. Standards exist for every aspect of operations and vary incredibly in effectiveness and reputation. In general, the most important categories will be quality management, social responsibility & ethical practices, and environmental management & sustainability (with some overlap). Suppliers adopt a voluntary standard by operating in compliance with the standard’s criteria.

Compliance:

Compliance to a standard doesn’t mean the supplier has been certified to the standard. While some suppliers may be operating in legitimate compliance, others may simply be claiming to. The problem is, you can’t tell which is which without certification.

Certification:

certification occurs when an accredited independent body (an auditor) verifies that a supplier adheres to the appropriate standard. Upon successful verification, the auditor typically issues a certification statement.

Not every audit firm or agency has the authority to grant recognized certifications. To issue valid certificates, an entity must operate within a structured hierarchy:

Standard Owners: Organizations that design and maintain the standards (e.g., ISO, Textile Exchange, Global Organic Textile Standard International Working Group, OEKO-TEX Association).
Accreditation Bodies: Government or international oversight bodies (e.g., IOAS, ANSI, UKAS) that audit and accredit testing agencies to ensure impartiality and technical competence.
Accredited Certification Bodies (CBs): Third-party auditing agencies authorized to conduct on-site inspections, laboratory testing, and issue official Scope Certificates (SC) and Transaction Certificates (TC). Examples include Control Union, SGS, Intertek, TÜV SÜD, Bureau Veritas, etc.

Importance of Certification

For quality managers, compliance auditors, and executive leadership, certification serves as the backbone of operational compliance and brand integrity:

Supply Chain Traceability: Establishes chain-of-custody tracking from raw material origin (e.g., organic cotton farms, recycled PET facilities) to the finished retail product.
Risk Mitigation: Protects businesses from regulatory penalties, costly product recalls, import rejections (e.g., non-compliance with EU REACH, US CPSIA, or greenwashing regulations), and public brand damage.
Global Standard Harmonization: Replaces fragmented vendor requirements with unified, internationally recognized frameworks, streamlining cross-border trade.

3. Strategic & Operational Benefits

For Senior Management:

Market Access & Retail Placement: Opens procurement doors to major international brands and retailers that enforce mandatory vendor compliance lists.
Protection Against Greenwashing Claims: Provides legally binding evidence for environmental, social, and governance (ESG) reporting, satisfying investor and regulator scrutiny.
Premium Positioning: Enables higher profit margins on certified sustainable or high-performance technical product lines.

For Auditors & Quality Assurance Professionals:

Standardized Protocol: Replaces subjective internal assessments with clear, repeatable testing and auditing methodologies.
Operational Control: Reduces defects, waste, and chemical non-conformities by implementing robust Quality Management Systems (QMS) and Restricted Substances Lists (RSL).
Continuous Improvement: Imposes structured annual audits, forcing facilities to maintain corrective action plans and ongoing operational efficiency.

Types of Certificates for the Textile Industry

Environmental & Chemical Safety

· Bluesign: Guarantees clean chemical inputs and safe manufacturing processes to minimize environmental impact.

· Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex: Certifies that chemicals, colorants, and auxiliaries used in textile manufacturing meet strict safety and ecological criteria.

· ZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals: Focuses on eliminating harmful chemicals across the global textile, leather, and footwear value chains.

· Greenpeace Detox Campaign: A public commitment framework for brands to eliminate toxic chemical discharges.

· Cradle to Cradle Certified: Assesses products across circularity, material health, clean air/climate, water stewardship, and social fairness.

· Carbon Trust Standard: Recognizes organizations reducing their carbon footprint year-over-year.

Organic & Recycled Material Tracing

· Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): The leading world standard for organic fibers, covering ecological and social criteria across the entire supply chain.

· Organic Content Standard (OCS): Tracks and verifies the percentage of organically grown material in a final product.

· Recycled Claim Standard (RCS / RCS 100): Verifies the presence and amount of recycled material in a final product through chain-of-custody tracking.

· Global Recycled Standard (GRS): Similar to RCS, but adds strict requirements for social fairness, environmental processing, and chemical content.

· Content Claim Standard (CCS): The foundation standard for Textile Exchange standards that traces raw materials through the supply chain.

Sustainable Fibers & Forestry

· Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): Promotes sustainable practices and reduced pesticide usage in cotton farming.

· Cotton Made in Africa (CMA): Supports African smallholder farmers while promoting ecologically friendly cotton production.

· Forest Stewardship Council (FSC): Ensures wood-based fibers (like viscose, rayon, and lyocell) come from responsibly managed forests.

· PEFC: An international umbrella organization certifying sustainable forest management for wood-based textiles.

Animal Welfare

· Responsible Down Standard (RDS): Ensures ducks and geese are treated humanely in the down and feather supply chain.

· Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): Verifies animal welfare practices on sheep farms and land management requirements.

· Leather Working Group (LWG): Audits leather manufacturers based on environmental performance and traceability.

Social Compliance & Ethical Labor

· SA8000 & SAAS: A measurable international social accountability standard focused on worker rights, safe conditions, and fair pay (accredited by SAAS).

· Fair Wear Foundation (FWF): An independent body working directly with brands and factories to improve garment worker conditions.

· Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP): Audits and certifies factories for safe, lawful, humane, and ethical manufacturing.

· Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI): An alliance of companies, trade unions, and NGOs promoting respect for workers' rights.

· Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI / amfori BSCI): Provides a unified social auditing strategy for global supply chain monitoring.

· Fair Labor Association (FLA): Holds member companies accountable for implementing fair labor standards worldwide.

· Fair Trade: Guarantees fair wages, safe working conditions, and community development premiums for farmers and artisans.

Facility & Management Standards

· ISO 9001 (2015): The global benchmark for standard quality management systems (QMS).

· LEED: Certifies energy efficiency, water conservation, and environmental sustainability in factory buildings and facilities.

Assessment Frameworks & Industry Commitments

· SAC Higg Index: A suite of tools that enables brands and facilities to measure their environmental and social impacts across five key areas.

· GFA 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment: A brand-level initiative to accelerate the transition to a circular fashion model.

· EMF Make Fashion Circular: A global collaborative initiative redesigning fashion systems toward circularity.

· Alliance for Responsible Denim: Focused on making denim production processes more sustainable.

· Textile Sustainability Coalition (TSC): Multi-stakeholder collaboration aimed at driving textile circularity and sustainable practices

Priority Order for the Certificate

For a textile manufacturer or fashion brand prioritizing business operations and buyer compliance, certifications fall into five priority tiers based on regulatory necessity, global buyer demands, and market accessibility.

1. Priority Tier 1: Baseline Core Compliance (Essential) Must-have operational standards required by almost every global buyer for chemical safety, legal entry, and quality control.

· Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex: Guarantees input chemical safety before production begins.

· ZDHC Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals: Industry baseline for wastewater and restricted substance management.

· ISO 9001 (2015): The fundamental global benchmark for quality management systems.

· Content Claim Standard (CCS): The underlying foundation required for tracking chain-of-custody for all Textile Exchange standards.

2. Priority Tier 2: Labor & Social Compliance (Mandatory for Export) Required by major brands and retailers to verify ethical factory conditions and prevent supply chain labor violations.

· BSCI (Business Social Compliance Initiative): The standard audit used by major European retailers.

· WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production): Highly requested by US brands and mass-market retailers.

· SA8000 & SAAS: The gold standard for factory-level ethical working conditions and worker rights.

· Fair Labor Association (FLA): Benchmark social compliance used by tier-1 global apparel brands.

· Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI): Essential for supplying UK and European high-street brands.

· Fair Wear Foundation (FWF): Highly regarded for European brand compliance and workplace safety.

3. Priority Tier 3: Material & Traceability Standards (High Commercial Demand) Directly drives sales by enabling high-demand marketing claims around recycled, organic, or sustainable raw materials.

· Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): The undisputed global benchmark for organic fiber supply chains.

· Global Recycled Standard (GRS): The leading standard for recycled synthetic fabrics, requiring social and chemical checks.

· Organic Content Standard (OCS): Tracks organic inputs when full GOTS processing criteria cannot be met.

· Recycled Claim Standard (RCS / RCS 100): Simplified traceability for recycled inputs without social audit layers.

· Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): High-volume entry point for sustainable cotton sourcing.

· Forest Stewardship Council (FSC): Essential for wood-derived man-made cellulosic fibers (Viscose, Rayon, Lyocell).

· PEFC: Key standard for sustainable forest management in cellulosic fibers.

4. Priority Tier 4: Material-Specific & High-Performance Standards (Niche / Specialization) Critical only if specializing in specific raw materials, performance textiles, or premium circular models.

· Bluesign: Premium benchmark for heavy-processing performance, outdoor, and technical textiles.

· Leather Working Group (LWG): Indispensable if processing or manufacturing leather goods.

· Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): Essential for high-end wool and suiting supply chains.

· Responsible Down Standard (RDS): Essential for outdoor gear, outerwear, and bedding.

· Cotton Made in Africa (CmiA): Specialized sustainable regional cotton standard.

· Cradle to Cradle Certified: Premium standard for advanced circular economy products.

5. Priority Tier 5: Industry Measurement Tools, Commitments & Benchmarks Brand-level reporting frameworks, facility ratings, and industry Pledges (not physical fabric labels).

· Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) Higg Index: Standard facility assessment tool used by major global brands.

· LEED: Focuses on factory real estate and green building design, not the fabric itself.

· Carbon Trust Standard: For corporate carbon footprint verification.

· CCB Standards (Climate, Community & Biodiversity): Typically used for carbon offset initiatives.

· EMF Make Fashion Circular: Brand initiative commitment for circular design.

· GFA 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment: Brand-level sustainability pledge.

· Greenpeace Detox Campaign: Corporate policy campaign framework.

· Alliance for Responsible Denim: Industry collaboration group for denim innovations.

· Textile Sustainability Coalition (TSC): Stakeholder research and advocacy group.

Certification Authority :

Here is a breakdown of the primary accredited Certification Bodies (CBs) operating in India for each major standard category:

1. Textile Exchange & Organic Standards (GOTS, GRS, OCS, RCS, CCS, RDS, RWS) These international standards are audited by accredited third-party certification bodies with offices across India (primarily located in Mumbai, New Delhi, Tirupur, Coimbatore, and Ahmedabad).

· Control Union Certifications India: The largest certifying body in India for GOTS, GRS, OCS, RCS, RDS, and RWS.

· SGS India: Fully accredited for Textile Exchange standards (GRS, RCS, OCS, RDS, RWS) and GOTS.

· Intertek India: Accredited for GOTS, GRS, RCS, and OCS.

· TÜV SÜD South Asia / TÜV NORD India: Certified for GOTS, GRS, and Organic Content Standards.

· OneCert International: India-headquartered body accredited for GOTS, OCS, and GRS.

· GCL International (India): Accredited for GRS, RCS, OCS, and GOTS chain of custody audits.

· Ecocert India: Major certifier for organic raw materials and GOTS processing criteria.

2. Chemical Safety & Environmental Standards (Oeko-Tex, Bluesign, ZDHC)

· TESTEX India / Hohenstein India: Authorized test institutes issuing Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex and Standard 100.

· Bluesign Technologies (India Desk): Audits and implementation managed directly through Bluesign’s regional technical team in coordination with certified lab partners (SGS, TÜV SÜD).

· ZDHC Approved Verifiers: SGS India, Intertek India, TÜV SÜD, and Bureau Veritas India (conduct wastewater and MRSL compliance verification).

3. Social Compliance & Labor Standards (SA8000, WRAP, BSCI, FLA, ETI, Fair Trade)

· SA8000 (SAAS Accredited): Bureau Veritas India, TÜV NORD India, SGS India, Intertek, DNV GL.

· amfori BSCI: Audited by approved monitoring bodies in India including Bureau Veritas, TÜV SÜD, SGS, Intertek, and TÜV Rheinland India.

· WRAP: Audited by accredited independent firms such as Intertek India, SGS India, UL Solutions India, and Bureau Veritas.

· Fair Trade Certified: Audited through FLOCERT India (the primary certification body for Fair Trade).

· Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) & FLA: Conducted by approved social compliance audit firms like Elevate (an LRQA company), SGS, and Intertek.

4. Sustainable Fiber & Forestry (BCI, CmiA, FSC, PEFC)

· Better Cotton Initiative (BCI): Managed directly by Better Cotton India, with third-party assessments conducted by accredited partners (e.g., Peterson Solutions, Control Union).

· Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) & PEFC: Bureau Veritas India, Control Union India, SGS India, and TÜV Rheinland.

5. Circularity & Facility Standards (Cradle to Cradle, ISO, LEED, Carbon Trust)

· Cradle to Cradle (C2C): Assessed via accredited C2C assessors operating in India (e.g., MBDC partners, SGS, EPEA).

· ISO 9001 (2015): Accredited by NABCB (National Accreditation Board for Certification Bodies - India) and global bodies. Certifiers include BIS (Bureau of Indian Standards), BSI India, Bureau Veritas, DNV, TÜV SÜD, and Bureau International Certifications.

· LEED: Administered and certified through GBCI India (Green Business Certification Inc.) and IGBC (Indian Green Building Council).

· Carbon Trust Standard: Direct assessment managed by Carbon Trust’s international team alongside regional environmental consulting partners.

Key Takeaway for Indian Manufacturers

"For most fabric mills and garment exporters in India, Control Union India, SGS India, Intertek India, and Bureau Veritas India serve as 'one-stop shop' certification bodies—they hold direct accreditations to audit and issue Scope Certificates (SC) and Transaction Certificates (TC)."

Preparation of Textile Factory for ISO, Wrap, Compliance & Accord Alliance Audit

Introduction:The success of ready made garment exports from any country over the last two decades has dependent on compliance of the factory . Today the apparel export sector is a multi-billion-dollar manufacturing and export industry in the country. The overall impact of the ready made garment exports is certainly one of the most significant social and economic developments in country growth.

Current Export of RMG in the different countries of world are increasing day by day.

Objectives:The objective of the Assignment is to Preparation of textile Factory for ISO, WRAP, Compliance, Accord & Alliance Audit. This manual provides the procedures to set up Code of Conduct According to ISO, WRAP, Compliance, Accord & Alliance to any textile Industry.

It will also help in making better environment. Ensure motivational activity in the organization / Factory. This will also help to maintain a good employee relationship and a sound working environment in the organization.

Aim:To see how implement ISO & WRAP, Compliance and Accord & Alliance principle in textile industry. And also to fulfill the labor working condition and ensure Proper Safe Workplace to them by Maintaining all the Code of Conduct.

Description:“The International Organization for Standardization” widely known as ISO is an international standard-setting body composed of representatives from various national standards organizations. Founded on February 23, 1947, the organization promulgates worldwide proprietary, industrial, and commercial standards. It has its headquarters in Geneva, Switzerland.

“Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production” (WRAP) is an independent, global non-profit organization dedicated to the certification of facilities engaged in lawful, humane and ethical production. Headquartered in Arlington, Virginia, WRAP has offices in Hong Kong and Bangladesh with staff in the UK, Mexico and East Africa.

History of ISO:Standards are important in international trade because in congruent standards can be barriers to trade, giving some organizations advantages in certain areas of the world. Standards provide clear identifiable references that are recognized internationally and encourage fair competition in free-market economies. Standards facilitate trade through enhanced product quality and reliability, greater inter operability and compatibility, greater ease of maintenance and reduced costs. ISO covers a wide variety of standards with the exception of electrical and electronic engineering standards covered by the International Electro-Technical Commission (IEC), telecommunication standards covered by the International Telegraph Union (ITU) and information technology covered by JTC 1 (a joint committee between ISO and IEC).

The organization which today is known as ISO began in 1926 as the International Federation of the National Standardizing Associations (ISA). This organization focused heavily on mechanical engineering. It was disbanded in 1942 during the second World War but was re-organized under the current name, ISO, in 1946.

Even the name of the organization is standardized. The name, “ISO” is not an acronym but was derived from the Greek word “iOS’s” meaning “equal”. (The relation to standards is that if two objects meet the same standard, they should be equal.) This name eliminates any confusion that could result from the translation of “International Organization For Standardization” into different languages which would lead to different acronyms.

ISO is a voluntary organization whose members are recognized standard authorities, each one representing one country. The bulk of the work of ISO is done by the 2700 technical committees, subcommittees and working groups. Each committee and subcommittee is headed by a Secretariat from one of the member organizations. The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) is the United States representative to ISO. The ANSI ASC Z-1/ASQ Standards Group coordinates the United States representation in the ISO Technical Committees 176 and 207 which are concerned with the ISO 9000 and ISO 14000 standards respectively.

History of WRAP:Recognizing the potential for individual manufacturers to adopt inconsistent standards and unnecessarily duplicate monitoring efforts, several prominent apparel producers approached the American Apparel Manufacturers Association to coordinate the industry’s role in addressing these issues. In August 2000, the AAMA merged with the Footwear Industries of America and The Fashion Association to become the American Apparel and Footwear Association, the fashion association. The AAFA is the largest and most representative sewn products trade association in the United States with over 700 member companies, including blue chip manufacturers Sara Lee Corporation, Jockey International, VF Corporation, Russell Corporation, OshKosh B’Gosh, Tropical Sportswear International, Gerber Children’s wear. AAFA members produce more than 85% of sewn products sold at wholesale in the U.S.

Almost 10 years ago, the industry began a process to demonstrate its commitment to responsible business practices and to ensure that apparel is produced under lawful, humane and ethical conditions. The process has reached out to many interested constituencies outside the apparel manufacturing community, including retailers, human rights advocates, public interest organizations, development agencies, and the licensing community.

The first result of this process was the development of the Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production Principles — basic standards that address labor practices, factory conditions, and environmental and customs compliance. The WRAP Principles received the public endorsement of the AAMA Board of Directors in 1998. Later the Principles were endorsed by groups representing apparel manufacturers from 18 countries around the world. Global support for WRAP from consumers, manufacturers and governments grows monthly.

In addition to the endorsement of the WRAP Principles, the manufacturing associations and member manufacturing companies are actively participating in the WRAP Certification Program. The WRAP Certification Program is the only independent and globally supported factory certification program requiring manufacturers to comply with the 12 universally accepted WRAP Production Principles assuring safe and healthy workplace conditions, and respect for workers’ rights.

Many manufacturers have commented that WRAP has not only resulted in more reliable social compliance, but has contributed to greater productivity, lower turnover, improved communications between management and employees, safer working conditions and improved morale. Today, WRAP is being recognized by many retailers and manufacturers as the most reliable, yet economically efficient factory compliance system to assure lawful, ethical and human manufacturing.

Work Procedure of ISO:Each member body who has an interest in the work of a committee is entitled to be a member of that committee. Standards are reached by consensus with each member organization representing the interests of the vendors, manufacturers, consumers, professionals, and government of its country.

Each standard goes through a six stage process before being published as an ISO standard. The first stage is the proposal stage in which a need for a standard is determined and members are identified who are willing to work on it. The standards then enter the preparatory stage where a working draft of the standard is developed. When the working draft is completed, it enters the committee stage and is sent out for comments until a consensus is reached. The output of this stage is the Draft International Standard (DIS). The DIS then enters the enquiry stage where it is circulated among all member bodies and then voted upon. If a DIS does not receive 75% of the vote, it returns to lower stages and work on it continues. If it passes the enquiry stage, it becomes a Final Draft International Standard and enters the approval stage. During this stage it will again circulate through all member bodies for a final vote and again it must pass this stage with 75% of the vote. If the standard passes this stage, it enters the publication stage and is sent to the ISO Central Secretariat for publication.

Because certain technologies are changing so rapidly, ISO has instituted a Fast Track procedure that allows a standard which has been proven in the market to enter the approval process at the enquiry stage.

Work Procedure of WRAP:WRAP encourages all commercial and civil society organizations that are qualified to perform professional and objective evaluations of manufacturing facilities to apply for accreditation. These organizations are referred to as “monitors” in the following discussion. Their principals, employees, consultants, et al. who will be directly involved in WRAP monitoring activities are called “designated personnel.

Monitors and their designated personnel cannot own any financial interest (including but not limited to equity, debt, or assets) nor hold legal, titular, membership, employment or representational interests or relationships in either the companies or the facilities that participate in WRAP’s Certification Programs.

Monitors and their designated personnel cannot be directly or indirectly related in a legal or familial capacity to the facilities and companies that participate in a WRAP Certification Program.

1. Monitors and their designated personnel are prohibited from receiving, at any time, any compensation or promise thereof beyond the reasonable inspection fee negotiated with a factory (which must be reported to WRAP: see below). This does not preclude the monitor from receiving additional fees for additional legitimate inspections.

2. The monitor must provide WRAP with all relevant materials that support the qualification requirements for accreditation, including but not limited to:

· Description of the organization and its juridical status in the country or countries in question, and in the country of its headquarters.

· Relevant experience and work history of the enterprise, including name and description of some of its current clientele.

· Three professional references for services performed that can be independently verified by WRAP.

· Names and qualifications of all designated personnel (see above) including a one-page Curriculum Vitae for each.

· Affidavit signed by the chief executive officer attesting to the accuracy of all information provided for accreditation, and to the monitor’s compliance with the above requirements (including “Independence” and “Skills”).

· The monitor transfers the appropriate fee to WRAP. For the fee and duration of accreditation.

3. For each WRAP Certification Program, a list of all countries for which it seeks accreditation.

4. All designated personnel (see above) must complete a WRAP authorized Monitor Training Course. (WRAP may grant Provisional Accreditation until such time as a course becomes available to a given monitor.)

5. Based on the monitor’s performance in the course and on its compliance with the above requirements, WRAP decides whether or not to grant accreditation.

Principle of ISO:

Principle 1: Customer focusOrganizations depend on their customers and therefore should understand current and future customer needs, should meet customer requirements and strive to exceed customer expectations.

Principle 2: LeadershipLeaders establish unity of purpose and direction of the organization. They should create and maintain the internal environment in which people can become fully involved in achieving the organization’s objectives.

Principle 3: Involvement of peoplePeople at all levels are the essence of an organization and their full involvement enables their abilities to be used for the organization’s benefit.

Principle 4: Process approachA desired result is achieved more efficiently when activities and related resources are managed as a process.

Principle 5: System approach to managementIdentifying, understanding and managing interrelated processes as a system contributes to the organization’s effectiveness and efficiency in achieving its objectives

Principle 6: Continual improvementContinual improvement of the organization’s overall performance should be a permanent objective of the organization.

Principle 7: Factual approach to decision makingEffective decisions are based on the analysis of data and information.

Principle 8: Mutually beneficial supplier relationshipsAn organization and its suppliers are interdependent and a mutually beneficial relationship enhances the ability of both to create value.

Social Accountability:In today’s fast changing global market, it is not only the quality of garments which cherished the retailers and manufacturers but also the working environments of the organization wherein the products were produced. Those are equally important to gain and strengthen consumer confidence and to build-up more reliable relationships with vendors. In other words, specific code of conduct that protects the basic human rights of the workforce engaged in the trade is to be respected to satisfy consumers and to add social value to the product. Basic awareness of the social accountability helps to understand and monitor the compliance part of it in protecting the image of a particular brand of product.

In order to do so, the reputed and leading market players in the garment trade have imposed compulsion on the related factories to achieve those objectives as a condition of the export contract. Even the exports were either withheld or cancelled elsewhere in the event of non-compliance to such issues.

Code of Conduct (COC):Social Accountability standards have been developed by the international organizations such as Fair Labor Association (FLA), Worldwide Responsible Apparel production (WRAP) , Council on Economic Priorities Accreditation Agency (CEPAA), The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and Business for Social Responsibility (BSR).

Reputed brand buyers in large supply chain have taken the guideline from those organizations and formulated their own standard of COC and also the acceptance criteria.

The basic principles of COC have been derived from the principles of international human rights norms as delineated in International Labor Organization Conventions, the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights.

It has Eight core areas to be addressed upon. These are as follows:

1. Compliance with Laws and Workplace Regulations

2. Labor

· Child labor

· Contract labor (if Applicable)

· Discrimination

· Forced labor

3. Freedom of Association and the Right to Collective Bargaining4. Human Treatment5. Prohibition of Harassment or Abuse6. Working Hour7. Working Condition

· Occupational Health and Safety

· Environment

8. Management systems

Compliance with Laws and Workplace Regulations:Facilities will comply with laws and regulations in all locations where they conduct business. Factories that produce goods shall operate in full compliance with the laws Of their respective countries and with all Other applicable laws, rules and regulations.

1. The factory operates in full compliance with all applicable laws, rules and regulations, including those relating to labor, worker health and safety, and the environment.

2. The factory allows Gap Inc. and/or any Of its representatives or agents unrestricted access to its facilities and to all relevant records at all times, whether or not notice is provided in advance.

Labor:

Child Labor:Facilities will not hire any employee under the age of 14 or under the minimum age established by law for employment, whichever is greater, or any employee whose employment would interfere with compulsory schooling.

Violation:Child labor was found at the factory. It was confirmed from the verification of personal document and the appearance of the employee. From the workers interview, it was understood that one worker was about 13 years old.

Contract Labor Requirements (if applicable):Factories that recruit or employ foreign contract workers shall ensure that these Workers are treated fairly and on an equal basis with workers.

1. Factories that recruit or employ foreign contract workers must comply with the provisions of Gap Inc.’s Contract Labor Requirements attached hereto as an addendum.

Discrimination: "Facilities shall employ, pay, promote, and terminate workers on the basis of their ability to do the job, rather than on the basis of personal characteristics or beliefs."

1. The factory hires, employs, provides training, and offers retirement benefits to workers without regard to race, color, gender, nationality, religion, age, maternity, marital status, indigenous status, social origin, disability, sexual orientation, membership in worker organizations, or political affiliation.

2. The factory pays workers' wages and provides benefits without regard to race, color, gender, nationality, religion, age, or maternity status."

Forced Labor:

Facilities will not use involuntary, trafficked labor. Factories shall not use any prison, indentured forced labor.

Freedom of Association and the Right to Collective Bargaining:Workers are free to join associations of their own choosing. Factories shall not interfere with workers who wish to lawfully and peacefully associate, organize bargain The decision whether not to do so should be made solely by the workers.

1. Workers are free to choose whether or not to lawfully organize and join associations, if freedom of association and/or the right ta collective bargaining are restricted by law. workers shall be free to develop parallel means or independent and free association and collective.

2. The factory does not threaten. restrictor interfere with efforts to join Of their choosing or to bargain collusively.

Fig: Collective Bargaining

Human Treatment:Factories shall treat all with respect and dignity Factories Shall not punishment other form of physical psychological coercion.

1. The factory does not engage in permit physical acts to punish or coerce worker.

2. The factory does not engage in o’ permit psychological any Other form of non-physical abuse, including threats of Violence, sexual harassment. screaming or Other verbal abuse.

Prohibition of Harassment or Abuse:Facilities will provide a work environment free of supervisory or co-worker harassment or abuse, and free of corporal punishment in any form.

Fig: Prohibition of Harassment

Compensation/Wages and Benefits:Facilities will pay at least the minimum total compensation required by local law, including all mandated wages, allowances &benefits. Factories shall pay wages and overtime premiums in & compliance with all applicable laws.

1. Workers shall be paid at least the minimum legal Wage that meets local industry Standards Whichever is greater.

2. The factory pays overtime and any incentive (or piece) rates meet all legal requirements the local industry standard. Whichever is greater. Hourly wage rates for overtime must be higher than the rates for the regular work shift.

3. The factory provides paid annual leave and holidays as required by law or which meet industry Standard, Whichever is greater.

4. For each pay period, the factory provides workers an understandable wage statement which includes days worked. piece rate earned per day, hours of overtime at each specified rate, bonuses, allowances and legal contractual deductions.

5. The factory shall not modify or terminate workers’ contracts for the sole purpose of avoiding the provision Of benefit.

Fig: Compensation Wages and Benefits

Working Hours:

Factories shall set working hours in compliance with all applicable laws. "While it is understood that overtime is often necessary in garment production, factories shall carry out operations in a manner that limits overtime to ensure humane and productive working conditions."

1. The factory complies with all applicable laws. regulations and industry standards on working hours, Except in extraordinary business circumstances. the maximum allowable working hours in any week shall be the lesser of a) what is permitted by national law, or b) a regular week of 48 hours plus overtime hours not in excess Of 12 hours.

2. Workers may refuse overtime Without any threat of penalty, punishment or dismissal.

3. Workers shall be provided at least one day off in every seven-day period.

Occupational Health and Safety:Factories Shall comply With all applicable and regulations regarding working conditions and Shall provide workers With a safe and healthy environment. Facilities will provide a safe and healthy work environment. Where residential housing is provided for workers, facilities will provide safe and healthy housing.

1.The factory complies with all applicable laws regarding working including worker health and safety, sanitation, fire safety, risk protection, and electrical, mechanical and structural safety.

2. Work surface lighting in production areas—such as sewing. knitting. pressing and cutting—is sufficient for the safe performance of production activities.

3. The factory is well ventilated. There are Windows, fans, conditioners or heaters in all for adequate Circulation, ventilation temperature control.

4. There are Sufficient, clearly marked exits allowing for the orderly evacuation of workers incase of fire or emergencies. Emergency exit are posted and dearly marked in all sections of the factory.

5. S. Aisles. exits and stairwells are kept clear at all times of in process, finished garments, bolts of fabric, boxes and all Other Obstruct hit Id Obstruct the orderly evacuation Of workers in case Of fire Or Other emergencies. The factory indicates With a “yellow box” or Other markings that the areas in front Of exits. fire fighting equipment. panels and potential fire are to be kept Clear.

6. Doors and Other exits are kept accessible and unlocked during all working hours for orderly evacuation in Case Of fire or Other emergencies All main exit doors open to the outside.

7. Fire extinguishers are appropriate to the types of possible fires in the various areas of the factory, are regularly maintained and charged, display the date of their last inspection, and are mounted on walls and columns throughout the factory so they are visible and accessible to workers in all areas.

8. Fire alarm are on each floor and emergency light are placed above and on stairwells.

9. Evacuation drills are conducted at least annually.

10. Machinery is equipped with operational safety devices and is inspected and serviced on a regular basis.

11. Appropriate personal protective equipment such as masks, gloves, goggles, ear plugs and rubber boots is made available at no Cost to all workers and in its use is provided.

12. The factory provides portable Water for all workers and allows reasonable it throughout the working day.

13. The factory places at least one well-stocked first aid kit on every factory floor and trains specific staff in basis first aid. The factory has procedures for dealing with serious injuries that require medical treatment outside the factory.

14. The factory maintains throughout working hours clean and sanitary toilet areas and places no un reasonable restriction on their use.

Environment:Factories shall comply with all applicable environmental laws and regulations. Where such requirements are less stringent than Gap Inc.’s own, factories are strongly encouraged to meet the standards outlined in Gap Inc.’s statement of environmental principles attached hereto as an addendum.

1. The factory has an environmental management system (EMS).

2. The factory has an environmental emergency plan (EEP) that includes procedures for notifying local community authorities in case Of accidental discharge Or release or any other environmental emergency.

3. The factory stores hazardous and combustible materials in secure and ventilated areas and disposes of them in a safe, legal manner in compliance with local environmental regulations.

Security Service’s:Facilities will maintain facility security procedures to guard against the introduction of non-manifested cargo into outbound shipments (i.e. Drugs, explosives biohazards and /or other contraband).

Advantages of WRAP:The WRAP Certification program is grounded in the belief that factory-based certification is the most effective way to ensure that work place comply with the WRAP Production Principles. The WRAP program places primary responsibility for improving work place conditions on those who own and operate sewn product manufacturing facilities. WRAP Certification Offers Market Advantage. Acceptance of WRAP Certificate by multiple brands and Retailers eliminates duplication of monitoring efforts.

Preparation of Factory for Accord Alliance Audit:

These Audit are done by Three Steps. The following Steps are Discussed below broadly…

Electrical:As Built Electrical Drawing is the most vital point of electrical audit. This is also name as single Line Diagram (SLD). This show all Of Yours Electrical Equipment’s position and distribution. SLD has to be approved from alliance before work.

· Lightening protection with ear thing of entire factory to be done.

· All SDB, MDB, TL panel, FL panel etc. are corrected and modified with placement as per SLD.

· Thermo Graphic scan to identify hot areas and to identify category 1,2&3 risk areas with temperature measurement by third party.

· Transformer oil test report from third party to identify and armful material.

· All cables insulation measurement test to be dine from third party.

· Placing of electrical insulation material under DBs and other electrical equipment.

Structural:

· Factory layout plan to be approved from city Corporation and Factory Inspector.

· Detail Structural assessment paper from Structural Consultant Of the company who has constructed the building itself.

· Load calculation to be prepared by own load manager to support the load plan.

· Soil test report.

· Means of egress as per load plan.

· A load manager to be appointed preferably a structural engineer who will have to monitor loads everyday as per approved calculation.

· An electrical engineer has to be appointed in the factory to regular monitor of electrical issues.

Fire Safety:

· Fire con panel which has to be addressable.

· Separate fire con room.

· Fire safety officer from FSCD or deference to be appointed.

· Fire safety diagram to be approved from Alliance before work

· Illumination light to identify to exit routes.

· Clear exit signs both in Bengali and English.

· Fire assembly point.

· Fog light in the floors.

· Fire pump automatic and manual

· Huge water reservoir (50,000 gallon) to use during fire.

· Fire Hydrants.8 kg pressure of water to be produced during fire safety.

· All fire equipment’s as per low to procured.

· Fire safety plan and evacuation plan to be approved for FSCD.

C-T PAT(SOP)The C-T PAT means the Customs – Trade – Partnership against Terrorism. It is an initiative of the US customs service in the wake of the events of Sept – 11th in order to upgrade the security of commercial shipments against terrorist infiltration. It is also a Government / trade joint initiative to build co-operative relationships that result in the strengthening of overall sup I chain and border security.

C-T PAT is a recognition that customs cannot provide the height level of security without involving the ultimate owners of the supply chain (importers, carriers etc.). The customs services is asking business partner to implement improved and transparent physical security practices and communicate their requirement to their business partners within the supply chain. Areas of consideration include: Procedural Security, Physical Security, Personnel Security, Access Control, Training etc.)

1. CTPAT Conduct.

A. Packing Area (Physical Security):

1. All entry to be restricted in the Packing Area other than authorized personnel.

2. The entry authorization in the Packing Area is hanged in the entrance with photograph.

3. The person working in the Packing Area has to be checked by security every day so that they cannot carry any unwanted material.

4. The entry & exit of persons working in the Packing Area to be noted in the Register maintained by security.

5. All packed goods to be checked by a Needle Detector before packing.

6. Packing Area to be kept under lock & key when not in use.

7. The Packing Area to be kept under physical security monitoring.

8. The Packing Area to be kept under the supervision of Close Circuit Camera (CCTV) and to be recorded with a recording device.)

B. Loading & Unloading Area (Physical Security):

1) The Loading / Unloading area must be separated from other / private vehicle area. No other / private vehicle can enter in the Loading / Unloading area. The private / other vehicle area must be separated from Loading/ Unloading and Shipping vehicle area. There must be physical and visible barrier along with active guard to monitor which will keep Unloading and Shipping area separated and secured from any kind of unwanted entry. That will ensure safety of the goods, containers etc. The Loading/Unloading and Shipping area to be addressed as “Restricted Area” and no unauthorized personnel entry is accepted in any circumstances. Both physical, visible barrier and the presence of security guard jointly must add value to ensure this protection and safety.

2) All Entries to be restricted in Loading / Unloading Area other than authorized person.

3) Loading & Unloading Area to be kept under physical security monitoring.

4) The Loading / Unloading Area to be kept under the supervision of Close Circuit Camera (CCTV) along with a recording device.

5) Before loading any container the following to be considered:

· The condition of the container.

· The Fitness & Tax Token of the transport.

· The valid Driving License of the Driver.

6) The Loading & Unloading of the container to be checked and maintained by security.

7) Container to be sealed by prescribed seal. after loading.

8) All labels and seal of the container to be examined while loading & unloading.

9) The container itself to be checked as per the following criteria (7-point checking system).

· Right side.

· Left side.

· Front side.

· Outside.

· Inside.

· Ceiling.

· Floor.

C. Access Control:1. Stick monitoring is done in order to improve the access control of the factory.

2. No unauthorized entry of person / vehicle is allowed in the factory.

3. For permanent employee of the factory the individual ID Card is checked while entry to the factory.

4. If anybody of such employee fails or forgets to bring ID, then he / she is identified by department head before entry.

5. All visitors are to show their Photo ID Card, Visiting Card in the security Gate to prove their identity.

6. After their identity is proved then they are to register their name in the security register.

7 After the entry of their name in the security register they are issued with a visitor’s card which to be carried by them while visiting.

8. All the vehicles to be checked before entry.

9. All the belongings / bags of visitors to be checked by hand detector.

10. After the visit end the visitor’s card to be handed over to the security gate before departure.

11. In spite of above, if we find any unauthorized, unidentified person in the premises, to be dealt with very rapid and definite challenging procedure. Any person entering or exiting the premises or acting suspiciously or found improperly badged to be questioned/ interrogated. Primarily this is the job of security personnel of the factory. If security personnel can find any such suspicious person/ outsider/ improperly badged person in the factory to be captured/ arrested and preliminary investigation to be done by security department in consultation with GM (Admin). After preliminary investigation, the suspicious/ unauthorized person to be handed over to the security agencies for further disposal.

Never the less, it is the responsibility of all members also of the factory to challenge any one found suspicious / outsider / improperly badged. If any member other than the security personnel of the factory finds any such suspicious / outsider / improperly badged person, they will report immediately to the security personnel through their departmental heads.

D. Personal Security Related to CTPAT.

1. Personal document to be checked strictly before recruitment

2. Police investigation for some individual can be obtained if require, after recruitment.

3. Person who is identified as mentally imbalanced cannot be recruited.

4. Addicted persons to be identified.

5. All members to show their ID card while entry and will carry ID card in the entire duty period to prove their identity completely.

In case of Employee Termination, the designation/ identification of Terminated Employee are removed immediately. The list of terminated employee (if any) to be handed over to security department with photo and security department has to keep record of it. The termination of such employee to be informed by internal instruction which is to be given to all departments. Special attention to be given on his (terminated employee) access to the facto after termination. The security check posts are to be made ale about his access to the factory. In the event of such access the clearance of factory Top Management to be taken prior the entry. Re- employment of Terminated employee is not done normally. However, the re-employment can be done with the approval from Chairman/MD/Director of company in special cases, The Termination procedure is maintained very strictly.

E. Procedural Security (Integrity of Data): In the event of shipment, the packing in-charge / Edi Co-coordinator send the final packing list to commercial department and concerned Merchandiser for approval. After receiving the approved packing list from commercial department the Edi Co-coordinator informs to GM (Prod.), GM (Admin), Store Manager, Finishing Manager and Packing In- charge. Store Manager loads the cargo / container as per the finally approved packing list. The finally approved packing list is a classified document and it remains with only authorized department (Store, Commercial, Finishing and Merchandising department). No Unauthorized entry to this document is accepted. No change of this document is allowed. If any changes to be made has to be permitted from commercial department of head office. Any unauthorized changes of finally approved packing list to be dealt with severe administrative action against the individual/department. If there had been any change by commercial department, the written document / permission to be obtained and record to be maintained.

F. Material Security Related to CTPAT:

1. No material will entry in or exit out from the factory without authorized “Challan”.

2. No materials will entry inside factory without security check.

3. In case of Chemical, strict adherence to be mentioned. No unauthorized chemical will enter in the factory without MSDS.

4. All items of the factory to be maintained as per maintenance schedule.

5. Materials to keep under lock & key when not in use.

G. Information Security Related CTPAT:

1. Information circulation in the Factory should be on “need to know” Basis.

2. Every computer most have a password to open.

3. The password to be selected and given by IT Manager.

4. Password to be changed quarterly.

5. All members to that they understand about not disclosing the Factory Internal Information to outside people.

H. Usage of Seal for Covered Van Container Security:

1. All export & import transport carry shipment goods / imported goods must have security seal.

2. The security seals are issued by commercial department.

3. This security seal is fixed in the presence of store representative (Store In-charge), security personnel (Security Supervisor), Escort and Driver of the transport during export. This security seal is also removed in presence of same group of personnel in the time of Import.

4. In case of broken security seal found in the time of import, the incident to be informed immediately to commercial department, C & F Agent and Transport Agency. Without their concern the import transportremain close.

5. These seals are to be kept under lock & key and strict surveillance to be kept so that it does not fall on the hand of any unauthorized person.

6. The Truck drivers are strictly prohibited from participating in the loading. The truck drivers cannot enter in to the loading / unloading area as it is declared as “Restricted” for all unauthorized personnel entry. The truck drivers to be kept, away from the designated and restricted loading / unloading area which to be monitored and guarded by security personnel so that they cannot enter in that above mentioned restricted area. That will ensure to protect the integrity of the goods and lower the risk of unauthorized persons accessing or tampering with or damaging goods for Shipment.

I. The CTPAT Re Regulations During Loading:

1. In case of any shipment the store department will prepare three copies of Challan and all three copies to be sent to security. Security In- charge then handover one photocopy of challan to the security guard on duty

2. After the transport is found fit in all respect that will be sent to the loading area.

3. After parking of the transport to the loading area the security in-charge and guard to be present physically.

4. The duty guard will allow the goods to be loaded in the transport as per challan. He will also check style no, name of buyer, cartoon no, weight of the cartoon before loading into the transport. Any kind of difference in compare to challan the security guard will immediately inform the security in-charge.

5. After the termination of loading of all cartoon in the transport again the security in-charge and security guard will finally check it physically and confirm by counting against challan.

6. Any ambiguity to be reported and if require to be counted again before giving clearance for the move of transport.

7. If all clear, then the transport will be sealed with authorized seal.

8. The security in-charge and guard will note the vehicle registration no, name of driver, the driving license no of the driver and time out in a register and will give permission of departure of the transport.

9. The escort nominated by factor/ will accompany with each transport up to the destination of shipment. Before the departure of the transport the escort is handed over a copy of challan. The other twocopies remain in the factory.

10. In the time of vehicle departure the C & F agent to be informed about the details of shipment vehicle, time, drivers’ particulars etc.

11. After reaching of the transport to the destination the escort will inform the time of reach to the factory and that will be noted in the register.

12. Any unwanted incident to be addressed immediately.

In summary

When working with manufacturing partners across the global supply chain, verifying facility compliance through independent audits is essential. Utilizing facilities certified by internationally recognized accreditation bodies provides third-party validation of responsible manufacturing practices—ensuring legal compliance, worker safety, and environmental stewardship.